Emanuel Ungaro

All week, the Twitterverse has been asking, what’s Lindsay Lohan doing at Dior? At Viktor & Rolf? At John Galliano? Shouldn’t she be putting the final touches on her second Emanuel Ungaro outing? Today, before the show, the house gave us all an answer: Sorry, paparazzi, but the omnipresent starlet actually had nothing to do with the Fall collection.

Estrella Archs took her bow solo, but just because Lohan and the heart-shaped spangled pasties that got so much attention last season are out of the picture doesn’t mean that the pressure is off. On the whole, the collection of draped and ruched party dresses, scattered here and there with tailored jackets in menswear fabrics, was an improvement, if not necessarily made with the same joie de vivre or finesse as Ungaro’s originals. But with the eighties moment fast disappearing in fashion’s rearview mirror, Archs has new challenges ahead of her should she remain at the label. Now that everyone’s talking about minimalism again, the first order of business will be finding a way to make the house codes relevant again. As difficult as it’s no doubt been for Archs at Ungaro, it’s not yet clear that she has skills adequate to the task.
—Nicole Phelps

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