Costume National

Ennio Capasa poured on the sex appeal at his last two runway shows, inching hems way, way up the legs and cutting leather second-skin-tight. For Resort, he focused on the label’s bread and butter, sophisticated tailoring with a dollop of edge. A white tuxedo with a notched lapel looked sleek and sexy; his gray flannel double-breasted pantsuit was boxier yet still sharply cut. If a pair of tops with built-in scarves to wrap around the neck looked too much like a Phoebe Philo-ism, Capasa was back on home turf for evening. Two black gowns closed the lineup, one fitted and clingy, the other asymmetrically draped—both unfettered and utterly simple. It’s when Capasa does understatement that his clothes have the biggest impact.
—Nicole Phelps

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